When choosing, first check how the bait lies on the offset and whether it remains straight. Free movement only makes sense if the body is not pressed and the tip is positioned in sequence. Do a sample in the shallow with a few short tugs. If the line continues to twist, look for an assembly error before changing the hook or the other elements.
The swivel doesn't cancel the whole tackle. The diameter and strength of the main line, the leader, knots and the drag setting should work as a common system. Do not take the high strength of the wire as a permit for excessive load: The weakest link may be elsewhere, and it sets the real limit. This is especially true in acute stresses, when the weakness of the knot is manifested without warning.
When comparing this construction to a simple offset hook, observe mainly the behavior in a fall. The ring and swivel add their own role in sinking, so additional weight is not assumed by default. First test the rig in the state it was designed for, and only then adjust the speed through another element if the fishing venue or the guide requires it.
Before each fishing, inspect the wire, ring and swivel for deformation, roughness or difficulty spinning. After contact with an obstacle, repeat the check, even if the tip looks sharp. When transporting, secure the hook so as not to damage the knitted fishing line and other accessories. If the moving part gets stuck, change the rig instead of relying on it to release itself at the next cast.
If you are assembling this one step by step, start from Spinning Fishing and directed separate attention to Spinning hooks. Then review Knitted or crocheted spinning fishing lines to the search line and move to Spinning fishing lines and leaders, when you want to compare the options for a relationship between reel, lure and leader.